Dragons in Laos

“Are you going to the Dragon Boat festival tonight?”asks the very articulate 9 year girl sitting beside me on the bus; she has been talking to me non stop for most of our day trip. I had seen lots of lanterns and mysterious numbers at the side of the road. I also now remember reading about it in one of the leaflets I had picked up.

The mini bus drops me by the hotel. I head out quickly, realising that the numbers equate to the starting point of each dragon boat. There are 51! Groups of schools children in uniforms gather around their boat, putting the finishing touches to their creations. Staff from different organisations and villages dressed in national costumes, mingle and chat. Several men are using ladders to light the lanterns inside the dragon heads. I follow the boats till I get to number one.

Sitting on the curb, I wait and I wait. Over the loudspeakers, people, who I assume are important, give long speeches in Lao, music is played, a Buddhist monk chants. This is repeated several times over. Just as it seems that the lady standing in front of me, who is dressed immaculately in traditional costume and holding a large flag, is about to wilt and drop to the floor, a firework is set off and a cheer goes round the crowd.

Each dragon boat that passes me seems more spectacular than the last. The boats are all translucent, made from banana leaves, I think, stretched across the frame of the dragon. They remind me of the the tissue paper lanterns made at school. Inside each dragon lanterns burn, lighting the shape and giving brightness to the colours. The head of the dragon comes in so many different styles, rising upwards, illuminated from within. The body joins the ‘boat’ in the middle and is secured to a platform; its tail unfurls outwards and then inwards at the end. Several people push the dragon along, using the handles that are spaced along its length. The start of each boat is preceded by groups holding garlands of flowers and small lanterns; the rear followed by a band of children making as much noise as they possibly can by banging on instruments and replying to chants.

I try to video each dragon coming past. They are heading to the river. This celebration is the end of Buddhist Lent to pay respect to Buddha and the river god, Nagas. They are also going to float their lighted boats on the water to ask for a blessing and good luck for the next year.

I tire of watching after about number thirty. Wandering back along the the length of the parade, gives me a chance to see all the dragon boats. I eventually make it back to number fifty one – in the road just before my hotel. Now how’s that for a way to celebrate my Birthday!

Luang Prabang, where the dragon boat festival takes place, resembles a cross between a Swiss mountain village and French colonial town. Add to that a little bit of Chinese influence. The town is enveloped in a peninsula bounded by the Mekong and the Nam Khan rivers. The smaller roads off the main road, slide away on each side to the water.

Wooden balconied dwellings overlook the Main Street,

and are at present adorned with star lanterns.

Many Buddhist temples, each decorated in their own way, are to be found, it seems, every few steps.

Cafes and restaurants fit in beside shops selling elephant safaris and boat trips.

It has a very relaxed feeling, and I quickly fall into a daily routine of visiting the same coffee shop where I have lunch and can sit upstairs in a comfy chair to read and write.

The night market that blocks the main street each evening has a laid back feel.

There is really no pressure to buy anything and you can enjoy looking at the beautiful embroidered skirts, scarves and linen without being hassled.

I wish that I had more time in Laos. Even in the capital city of Vientiane cars will stop for you when the green man shows! Vientiane is the first time that I come face to face with a giant reclining Buddha image, resplendent all in gold. I most definitely gasp!