A descriptive account of my travels
Our last night in San Pedro takes us to a superb viewpoint to watch the sun set over the mountains. There is music playing in the background and everyone is taking photos, talking and doing their own thing. It’s a magical finish to our time in San Pedro and next day we feel really sad to leave.
It is Teresa’s 50th birthday today. I don’t think that we could have had a better day. There are hot geysers and freshly made breakfast served out of the back of the car; suphur smoking volcanoes and gorges dotted with ancient cacti. There is a stop in an isolated community to have bbq llama on a stick followed by a visit to the tiny mud covered church. There are quiet moments too, watching the wildlife, where the only thing you can hear is a vicuna munching on pondweed and the scurrying of a viscacha (Chilean rabbit) high up on the rocks.
The day is for taking our time and just appreciating.
The day finishes with a party for Teresa. Pancho makes a cake with tealights for candles. We sing Happy Birthday in several different languages, eat and chat.
“I’m not moving.” she is saying, “I’m coming with you.” You can tell from her body language and the fact she’s climbed into the car, that there is no way we are leaving her behind. She has followed us after we see her in town.
Teresa ends up with Malta on her lap on the way home – we have to drag her out of the foot well as the seats won’t go back with her sitting there.
Pancho tells us that the dogs in San Pedro are all well looked after and have multiple homes. Teresa’s theory is that the dogs run the town. We laugh that they all arrange to meet each day at a certain spot, to hang out, to eat, to guard their particular shop, to drink from the water trough, to sleep in the sun. Malta trots down the road everyday to do this: it’s a good 10 minute walk.
On another evening, when we are walking into town to have our evening meal, one of the guys from the house rides past on his bike.
“Evening ladies!”
Looking more closely we see Malta and another dog trotting along behind him. I think Teresa’s idea is right – the dogs are in charge here.
We take a trip to Moon Valley with Pancho. We meet Mauro, his neighbour, who drives us there and works really well with Pancho as a team on all the trips we take.
The start of the ‘walk’ looks easy. It is hot and the Brazilian couple who came with us from the house don’t have water or hats. I think we all thought we were just going for a little walk…..
We continue upwards….
The scenery is spectacular. The recent and unexpected rains have brought all the salt to the surface. It adds an extra dimension to the landscape making it more moonlike than ever.
We see the formation called the Amphitheatre on the opposite side of the valley.
Then we are at the top.
Teresa and I show how daring we are – we step behind the sign that says “Do not pass.”
We make our way back to the van, feeling very proud that we made it to the top.
However, before we know it we are climbing up another hill. Again there are amazing views, although we are a little distracted by the fact that we are walking along a ridge with the sand slipping away one side. I put everything in my bag so I can concentrate on walking.
Pancho gives us several different suggestions for continuining the walk. We look at him in stunned silence. He takes the lack of a response as the time to return to the car. I’m so glad we did the ‘trek’. Looking back at the photos I realise how stunning the place is and half wish I could walk up again. I feel so lucky to have seen it from those fantastic viewpoints.
After a ‘bit of a journey’ on the bus from Uyuni in Bolivia, we arrive in San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. A lady at the bus station helps us get a taxi. The taxi driver takes us to the wrong address but everyone is so helpful in trying to get us to the correct place. Later, walking down into the town in the dark, we sense rather than see the mountains on one side and feel ourselves relax. We eat our tea at an outside table in the square and enjoy the atmosphere. We get lost trying to find the house on the way back. Obviously it isn’t easy to find.
The next morning as we walk down into the town for breakfast, we see the mountains in the daylight for the first time. (The mountains seem to change colour each day that we walk this route).
We walk through the Artisan market on the way to the town square. We realise that it is Palm Sunday at the church. After buying palm crosses from the ladies by the gate, we glimpse in through the open doors at the service. The cactus wood ceiling is beautiful and the church has a peaceful feel to it.
The town has a laid back feel. We investigate the shops, buy a few souvenirs and have lunch.
The house where we are staying is an AirBnB. It has a shared kitchen, lounge and outdoor seating area. Everyone is really friendly and from all nationalities. Franciso (Pancho) and his dad, Luis, who own the house welcome us warmly into their family for the time we stay there. There is even a resident dog called Malta, ready, and very much willing to be stroked and made a fuss of. The table becomes our favourite place to sit; we open the front door to various people – you never know who is going to be behind it. We feel very much at home here.
One of the afternoons when we are sitting at the table, Luis comes and joins us. Using Google translate we manage to have a conversation. We have a lot of fun working out what each other is trying to say!
The first step onto the salt flats in Bolivia is like entering another world. The whiteness makes you squint; the perspectives of near and far change while your eyes adjust. The salt crunches under foot, and the small pieces you pick up crumble away to nothing. The last remaining areas that are covered with water, reflect the people, vehicles and the mountains on the plains. A slight breeze ruffles the pools, distorting the mirrored images. There is a quietness. Vehicles can be seen in the distance but seem so so far away that you feel you are on your own, peaceful and undisturbed.
It takes some skill, apparently, to take a selfie of two people with a statue of Jesus in the background. Teresa and I are laughing so hard while trying to get Jesus into the photo. All around perfect selfies are happening. We seem to to missing the statue’s arm or body or even head.
The best we seem to be able to do is a picture of Jesus hugging us.
The sight of the cathedral takes us completely by surprise. Made of concrete and looking rather like a beehive on the outside, it opens inside to stunning floor to roof stained glass windows. We gaze upwards in awe. Completely unexpected.
Although we enjoyed Rio and seeing the famous sights was incredible, I don’t think we fully experienced the city. We would have liked to explore on our own but felt constrained by the safety and security aspects.
The guy behind the desk at the hotel told us “Don’t take anything with you to the beach”, a group of girls on our tour were reminded to get an Uber if they were going out that night, and our guide said “Don’t go up to the top of the steps – people from the favellas wait for tourists there…… “
If locals are saying this then you have to follow this advice.
The restaurant window overlooks the passage way down to the beach. Every morning we observe the local Brazilians flip flopping along in speedos and bikinis, sometimes accompanied by a handbag sized dog.
The waiter comes to take our order and we ask him what the difference is between ham and cheese and cheese/ham. He doesn’t know either and neither it seems does the kitchen as we have by now ordered both options and they always come out as toasted ham and cheese sandwich. (Or is that a toasted cheese and ham sandwich?).
Maybe the difference in price is how well cooked you want it or what is put in the sandwich first.
The view from the roof of our hotel spans out across Ipanema Beach. To us it is the typical view we always see of Rio; beaches bordered by highrise hotels and apartments and the hills filling in the background.
Copacobana Beach on the other side of the headland is a lot larger, busier and extends all around the bay.
The Fort on the headland between two beaches offers great views of the landscapes both sides. People meet here for coffee and a stroll.
As much as I do enjoy travelling on my own and have visited some absolutely amazing places, it has been such fun travelling with Teresa for the past month. We have had a great time together. It has been so good to share experiences with someone else, to look at photos and go “Aah wasn’t that good.” It has also been reassuring to have another person answer when you speak, instead of realising you are talking to yourself!
Journeys with my pencil 