A descriptive account of my travels
I have thoroughly enjoyed my time in Peru. It’s been great revisiting some of the places I went to 11 years ago and being able to spend longer there. It’s been good to explore new places too. Coming in the summer also makes a difference to how things look and feel. Now for some new adventures….
My second visit to Machu Picchu is as exciting as my first. We walk up the steep path to the top of the site and the moment I see the citadel from the top, I am amazed again by the place. The guide tells us a little bit about the history of the site but to be honest I just enjoy walking and taking photos: Machu Picchu is a very photogenic place.
Footnote: Thanks for your company Patricia Rosa
After reading an article on Facebook about beautiful front doors in London, I have become fascinated with doors and windows around Peru. Some of them are so intricately decorated and I often wonder where they lead to…
Well I’ve found the place to do my writing. This is my writer’s garret. It’s a little lounge area just off my room with views across the rooftops .
From here I can see the main cathedral, another Plaza de Armas and at least two other churches. In contrast to my room in Arequipa – it is not quiet here. But I like that too. I like hearing the bustle down below, people talking and even shouting, wafts of Peruvian music, the traffic police blowing their whistles, the bells chiming every quarter of an hour, and emergency vehicle with sirens blazing going past every few minutes.
Cusco is another great place for just wandering; there are so many interesting buildings, squares and passageways to venture into and explore. That’s if you can avoid the people selling pictures, scarves and trinkets. I’d forgotten what it was like to be hassled. However that being said, usually a shake of the head and a no is enough to ensure that they move on.
I really struggle with the altitude here. Cusco is at 3300 metres above sea level. I’m breathless, my chest hurts, I take my altitude tablets and try to walk slowly. I also eat a lot of chicken noodle soup. And drink cocoa leaf tea- yuck! It’s supposed to be good for altitude! It takes me about 8 days to get used to the height.
After seeing many llamas and alpacas around Peru and being told a little bit about them by various tour guides, I did a little bit of research to find out some more.
Well they are both part of the camelid family. Alpacas have “short spear-shaped ears while llamas have much longer, banana-shaped ears.” Over the years llamas have been bred to be pack animals and for their meat, whereas alpacas have generally been bred for their wool. Llamas are usually larger and heavier than alpacas.
Llamas and alpacas live together in herds. They can cross breed. Their babies are called Huraizo.
The Vicuña is rarest of this family. The clothes made from its wool are some of the most expensive in the world.
Around Arequipa and Cusco, for a small price, you can get your photo taken with a baby llama or alpaca alongside the owner in her Peruvian costume.
The windows are steamed up and in the dark there is nothing to see. I try to nap, making up for the 3:00 am pick up. I’ve been putting off going on this trip as I’ve been worried about the altitude. For a few days I’ve been at 2300m above sea level and feel breathless. I’m not sure what 4900m high is going to do to me.
I wipe off the condensation from the window, and peer out. I get a glimpse of the orange of the sun rising behind the mountains. All of a sudden I’m excited. The sky lightens and I can make out the mountains and the winding road that we are travelling on.
Just as I’m dozing again, I hear the girl behind me breathing very fast and then being sick. Altitude sickness. For once I’m not really very sympathetic. Maybe it’s because I’m glad it’s not me or because the sound and smell of someone vomiting makes me want to do the same.
Soon after this we arrive at the highest point. For the first time since setting off on my travels, it’s really cold. A lady on a stall holds up hats, gloves and jumpers. She puts them down in turn as I shake my head and put on my own things. I don’t know how they stand the cold up here everyday.
The views across the plains to the volcanoes surrounding the area, are stunning. The mountains border each side and the ground is bare and looks a bit like a lunar landscape. There are little pinnacles of rocks; I’m not sure whether they are natural or if people have balanced stones on top of each other.
I take a few photos but my hands are cold without my gloves – it’s hard to take photos with them on. I feel a little bit breathless but not too bad. I scurry back to the warmth of the bus.
Our drive continues along the windy mountain round, vegetation now covers the ground, at first in clumps and then in the form of agricultural terraces and fields. Taking photos from the bus is a bit frustrating due the reflection of the glass.
We stop at a little restaurant for breakfast. If you stand on the wall in the garden you can see one of the active volcanoes in the distance.
A little market town with a church is our next stop. We have a quick 10 minutes here to view the church and buy souvenirs
A valley is laid out beneath us at the next location We see the terraces again, balanced precariously on the jagged wedges of rock that protrude over river.
I try to take a selfie – I don’t think my arm is long enough and I usually don’t look my best!
Colca Canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world – there is one in Tibet that is deeper.
The guide points out two condors. I can’t see them and for a moment feel disappointed – that’s what we’ve come to see. Waiting for a few minutes, I catch sight of a pair flying far below. Trying to be patient, I stand by the barrier and watch. Then they are nearer, gliding on the thermals, around and up. I attempt to take photos on zoom but it’s hard when there is a moving target to catch; I manage to get a few good ones.
The condors then glide off down the valley. I walk to the viewing platform to see if there are any more. There are lots of other people there doing the same.
I wander back to my place by the barrier. I’m in luck. Another condor floats up and I get probably my best photograph.
I do wonder afterwards though, whether trying to take photos and get the perfect shot actually stops you from enjoying the moment that you are in.
Struggling to catch my breath, I pant up the stairs to the top of the cathedral in the Plaza de Armas in Arequipa.
From the top we can see the plaza set out below, the mountains shrouded in cloud and across the rooftops of the city.
The bells in the towers are held on by straps of leather; the guide has no qualms about diving under the bell to show us the inscriptions on the inside. I stay where I am.
I seek out two other viewpoints in the city; both lunch spots. One I’m sure that I visited 11 years ago with the tour group I was with. I can see across to the cathedral and watch people down below.
The other is in the Plaza de Armas itself where I enjoy the music from a Peruvian band while watching from my balcony table.
Probably the most impressive place I visit in Arequipa is the Santa Catalina Monastery. I remember a brief stop there before but we didn’t see very much at all.
As soon as I step through the doors and look at the map, I start to realise how huge it actually is. I spend several hours exploring every little nook, room, courtyard, cloister and staircase.
The use of just three colours- orange, blue and white- with very little other decoration gives the buildings both impact and serenity.
Someone has carefully placed flowering plants just in view through the doorways – they make for effective photographs.
My favourite activity of the time spent in Arequipa is sitting in the chair just outside my room.
I enjoy the peace of the courtyard and garden and can watch the hummingbirds while writing or planning.
Relaxing by the sea in Miraflores…
Deepest, darkest Peru…
The Year of the Pig is my birth year. I wonder what this year will bring for me…..
Journeys with my pencil 