I think I’m developing a toilet phobia! The thought of going into one more toilet where there is water sprayed across the floor and all over the toilet seat is making me cringe. In Asia, the way to clean yourself after you have visited the toilet is to use the hose and squirt water. Now I expect that is probably a more hygienic way than using toilet paper. But please try to not splash the water everywhere. Please try to keep it in the bowl and then wipe down any excess, so the next person does not have to wade through a inch deep layer of water or have to crouch in an ungainly manner over the seat to avoid water (or worse) contamination!
Now in the shared accommodation that I have been staying in over the last few months you quite often have to take your shoes off at the front door. Thank God for my flip flops is all I can say. I can feel a shudder go down my back and an internal clenching of my fingers and toes even now thinking about the shower I will take tonight; because the shower in this case is also in the same cubicle as the toilet. Ugh!
In the three months of travelling, I have been in a fair few toilets. Lots are in same category as above. In others you have to stand on the raised grooved panels, crouching over the pan, trying to hold pants and shorts tightly to stop them from getting sodden. There are others where the doors are so low that when you stand up you can see everybody else. Or where the gap is so wide between the door and the cubicle that everyone can see everything anyway!
However, my worst toilet experience of my travels so far has to be at a roadside cafe toilet in Uzbekistan. Yes it had a door, though shutting it blocked out all the available light. The toilet was a hole in the ground. There was a helpful plastic pan and water to flush the toilet after use. This seemed to have just succeeded in spreading everything all over rather than washing it away. It is the smell that gets you. You are trying to hold your breath, covering your nose while trying not to retch and aiming to get out of there as quickly as possible. The smell remains with you for long afterwards. It is definitely not helped by the sight of a plate of grisly meat plonked down on the table as you are forced to eat lunch in the cafe next door. Bleugh!
This toilet is the benchmark for all others. I have yet to meet it’s match……
It is like watching something in slow motion. I’m in the chair, watching myself in the mirror. A quick chop and I have the straightest most obvious bowl cut fringe that you have ever seen. It is as if I can’t move and am observing myself from somewhere else. He then uses the scissors to cut round my hair at the bottom. I only wanted it trimmed. He reaches the other side and realises that it is nowhere near the same length – he tries to make it match. The result feels like the heroine in Mulan, when she uses a sword to chop off her hair so she can pretend to be a man to join the army. Only without the romance or the beautifully neat cut. I feel like I’ve been hacked at. Embarrassed I pay the money, try not to cry and pray that it will grow back very quickly!!!
So a warning – choose your hairdresser very carefully when travelling the world!
Right so it’s only me clinging on to the armrest for dear life as the bus driver steers the coach as if he is driving a rally car; leaning into the bends and swinging wide into the path of oncoming traffic, nearly knocking unsuspecting motorcyclists off their bikes and then swerving to avoid the landslides brought down by last night’s heavy rain. Everyone else is asleep. Asleep!! It’s a ‘shame’ as the view is spectacular. The road winds through the Cameron Highlands, overlooking dense jungle and tea plantations.
I’ve been staying in Tanah Rata the ‘main’ town in the area. It’s been a relief to get out of the humidity of the rest of Malaysia. And one day I even wore a jacket!
Damp and slippery to the touch, the moss on the branches is green and soft. It only covers a small area of this mountain. The weather conditions are just right for it to grow in this area. We are clambering through a very small part of the The Mossy Forest in the Cameron Highlands. I’m surprised that I haven’t fallen over yet, as we slither through mud, cling onto slimy branches and duck under bowed tree limbs. The air is moist and it feels like we are in an ancient jungle, perhaps just vacated by dinosaurs. The view when we reach the end is worth the effort of trying not to fall over; you can see down across the valley. I feel that I’m the only person who has mud splattered all over themselves; my trousers are filthy and my shoes caked in dirt. The guide tells us about the native flowers and animals, and points out that vehicles are only allowed up on the mountain until 9:30 am as after that the daily rain starts and makes conditions too hazardous to be up there.
We take the Land Rover down the hill and see the tea plantations spread out in front of us. The rows of bushes are bright green and add interest to the mounds. We take a tour of the tea factory, and find out how they process the leaves. There is a long queue to taste the tea. The day ends with a look at the local museum and a visit to a Buddhist temple – I haven’t seen one of those for a while!
There is street art on a huge scale in Georgetown, Malaysia. After an artist was commissioned to do some murals in 2012, it seems to have become a thing. I enjoyed following the numbered map to find the pieces of art. I like the fact that some of them were a mixture of 2D and 3D work.
The cartoon style ones made out of metal were also interesting; depicting the history and aspects of the town’s life. My only quibble is that it would be good if the art could be maintained. In places I had to avoid burnt out cars, building works, vehicles parked in front and just the general effect of wear and tear of the weather on paint and metal. It would be a shame if the fabulous artwork was lost.
The Chinese shop houses in rows, the old Chinese clan dwellings and the colonial mansions through out the old town are also very interesting to see. George Town is a good place just to wander and see where you end up.
Red morning sunrises; beaches you access through the military base; a pier that people walk or run up and down for daily exercise; amicable but not scary monkeys (although there are definitely some of those too); a hill top temple; fishermen and boats; a stunning picture window while eating breakfast; my own private balcony to watch the sunset; wooden Buddhist temples, and friendly locals and great guides. This is Prachuap Khiri Khan on the east coat of Thailand.
For now it is not very touristy at all and for the moment unspoilt. Let’s hope it stays this way.
Thanks to Chai (and his daughter) for showing me the sights. Thank you to Heather Markel for suggesting I visit here. Here is the link to her blog entry which goes into a lot more detail about Prachuap Khiri Khan.
My visit to the island of Ko Lanta is a first glimpse of what a tropical beach holiday is like. I walk the short distance from the hotel to the beach along a passageway bordered by high walls; I emerge onto the sand. The long narrow strip of white sand stretches away each side of me, its length fringed by palm trees. A few people are strolling along, others are swimming in the sea. Taking off my sandals, I paddle in the warm water and pick up shells. It is very relaxing. Later that evening I sit at the front table of a restaurant, see the sun set, experience mango sticky rice for the first time, and watch a fire show. It’s fabulous. Although the walk back to the hotel in absolute darkness with only my i-phone torch for light, is perhaps not so!
I manage two days of relaxing before I get bored! On the third day there I take a taxi to Old Lanta town. It is made up of old fisherman’s houses built on stilts, overhanging the water. As I start to wander down the street, a lady ‘invites’ me to eat at her restaurant. I follow her along the board walk into a room overlooking the sea. Such a lovely place to eat lunch. I walk out on the jetty to take photos. Wandering down the street, I admire the wooden buildings, stopping to have a drink at another veranda with a view over the water. This one even has a swing.
I do enjoy my time on the island. I love the cooler evenings, sitting eating my tea, watching the sun go down; but five days is long enough me.
I start walking along the road. There are stalls of food, clothes, art, knick knacks. I keep walking. The street still continues. This is the Sunday walking street market in Chiang Mai. It appears to be the longest street ever! I keep walking. Then I see it! A small Christmas tree on a stall hung with baubles. I have to look more closely. The man shows me that it is spun into a ball from shiny thread. Even before him saying, “Special price, just for you” I am already getting out my money. My first Christmas decoration while travelling. The market has a great atmosphere and does eventually end at the town walls. I enjoy diverting off into the side streets, examining items on tables and going into illuminated temples.
Chiang Mai has lots more temples and Buddhas for me to look at.
White Temple, Chiang Rai
In my head, I don’t really know what to do with the first sight of the White Temple. I have never seen anything like it. The complete whiteness contrasts with all the other temples I have visited. You walk through the pit of hell, past the hands scrabbling and clutching for air. Then underneath the threatening demons, weapons raised ready to attack. Even the dragons have tone of menace as they consume the tail of the beast in front. On reaching the temple, I am faced with murals depicting aspects of modern life in cartoon form. Again, nothing I’ve ever seen before. Yes there is the Buddha statue at one end of the sanctuary, where people can pray in front of, but the whole temple has a very different feeling altogether (which I think is the point).
Birthdays!
A new friend, a piano playing Happy Birthday, a cake and a candle, a personal visit from the owner of the restaurant, attentive service and good food. This was my belated Birthday meal at David’s Kitchen in Chiang Mai. Heather, who I had only met the day before, kindly invited me to share her Birthday meal. I nearly didn’t go. I’m so glad I did – I had such a good time.
Just a note. As I’m struggling to catch up on writing my blog, I’m just going to quickly post some photos and a brief explanation on each page of the places I’ve been to so far. Then I can write short blog posts about things that I’m doing at the moment. Plus I’m having WiFi issues too!
The golden Mount in Bangkok is one of those elusory sights that I see the first time I arrive in the city and I walk past it every time I leave the hostel. The gold stupa on top glints in the daylight and the double staircases twist themselves around the structure. People, in miniature, look down from the top. During my stay, I keep meaning to visit it.
Bangkok is a city that has surprised me. I don’t know what I was expecting but I was not expecting to like it. Yes, I have the usual scams tried out on me, some with success, and some not. The taxi man from the airport suggests I would like to pay 800 baht to get to the hostel and then lowering that to 700 when I start to make a fuss and eventually agreeing to put the meter on. Or the tuk-tuk ride that I foolishly take at an extortionate price because I am tired and not thinking; a horrible ride as it turns out, in the heat of a rush hour traffic full of choking fumes. Even taking a Grab cab is not without its hiccups. I have to get out before we even get going. A traffic policeman turns up and the driver obviously does not have the correct paperwork. I like the old historical areas, the new shopping centres and high rise buildings, the impressive wide Royal avenue, and the brash backpackers Khao San Road. But maybe not the traffic.
The first sight of the Grand Palace is overwhelming; the crowds of people adding to the feeling. I stand and stare.
I gaze upwards at the coiled spires, and stepped roofs. Behind me two imposing guardians, swords clasped vertically, blades resting on the ground, survey the courtyard.
In the humidity, as sweat runs down my back, I tour the different structures, admire the murals, appreciate the tiled walls, and take in the huge amount of gold that adorns everything. I take respite from the sun under the covered walkway that runs around the edge of the complex. I can’t believe the wealth and opulence on display.
My attention is taken by a model of Angkor Wat. I enjoy walking around it, recognising the features that I’ve seen in real life, and taking photos.
Nearby, is the temple of Wat Pho, housing a huge reclining Buddha, probably the largest I’ve seen so far and of course, with enormous feet.
The actual precinct of the temple is the most interesting, with little courtyards, hanging prayer flags, sculptures of giants, Buddha statues and a row of beautiful tiled stupas. I would like to stay longer, but it is too hot.
Everywhere you go in Bangkok (and Thailand) there are photographs of the King. The Royal family are revered and venerated by the nation. Even at the cinema, just before the film starts, we all stand to pay our respects while listening to the national anthem and watching scenes from the life of the King.
One of the highlights for me is visiting a shopping mall and seeing all the Christmas things! As you know, Christmas is one of my favourite times of year. I am so excited to see Christmas trees and decorations hanging up.
Although when you would actually wear the woolly hats and Christmas jumpers in the heat of Thailand, I really don’t know!
The other success is completing my mission to find the ‘noodleman’ that my friend, Julie met when she was there. I get my photo taken with him and eat at his noodle stall.
On the last day in Bangkok, it is Loy Krathong, The Floating Lantern Festival. This is where people float the lanterns they have made on the nearest river or canal. It symbolizes the letting go of the bad things and making a wish for a good future. Yui, the lady at my hostel, points out that they will be making lanterns for the festival later on tonight.
I arrive back from the cinema just in time to make my very own lantern. It obviously takes a bit of practise, as shown by the lady who demonstrates the folding of the banana leaf strips into leaf shapes. Hers are neatly folded in a few seconds, mine well….. I succeed in making my very own banana leaf lantern, incorporating flowers, incense sticks and a candle onto a piece of banana-tree trunk. I’m actually very proud.
As a small group from the hostel, we walk down to the nearby canal, light the candles and gently place our lantern on the water. We watch it float away.
Then Yui leads us off in the other direction. Next thing I know, we are actually climbing up the steps of the elusive Golden Mount. For once the steps are shallow and easy to walk up. We clang the massive temple bells on the way up. Hundreds of other people are ascending too, taking flowers as offerings. When we reach what I think is the top, I see in the corner a small, narrow stairway.
Emerging onto the roof we see the impressive golden stupa. People are giving their offerings and praying.
The view of the city from here, even in the dark, is spectacular. I’ve finally made it! To the Golden Mount. That seems a very good way to finish my time in Bangkok.
“Are you going to the Dragon Boat festival tonight?”asks the very articulate 9 year girl sitting beside me on the bus; she has been talking to me non stop for most of our day trip. I had seen lots of lanterns and mysterious numbers at the side of the road. I also now remember reading about it in one of the leaflets I had picked up.
The mini bus drops me by the hotel. I head out quickly, realising that the numbers equate to the starting point of each dragon boat. There are 51! Groups of schools children in uniforms gather around their boat, putting the finishing touches to their creations. Staff from different organisations and villages dressed in national costumes, mingle and chat. Several men are using ladders to light the lanterns inside the dragon heads. I follow the boats till I get to number one.
Sitting on the curb, I wait and I wait. Over the loudspeakers, people, who I assume are important, give long speeches in Lao, music is played, a Buddhist monk chants. This is repeated several times over. Just as it seems that the lady standing in front of me, who is dressed immaculately in traditional costume and holding a large flag, is about to wilt and drop to the floor, a firework is set off and a cheer goes round the crowd.
Each dragon boat that passes me seems more spectacular than the last. The boats are all translucent, made from banana leaves, I think, stretched across the frame of the dragon. They remind me of the the tissue paper lanterns made at school. Inside each dragon lanterns burn, lighting the shape and giving brightness to the colours. The head of the dragon comes in so many different styles, rising upwards, illuminated from within. The body joins the ‘boat’ in the middle and is secured to a platform; its tail unfurls outwards and then inwards at the end. Several people push the dragon along, using the handles that are spaced along its length. The start of each boat is preceded by groups holding garlands of flowers and small lanterns; the rear followed by a band of children making as much noise as they possibly can by banging on instruments and replying to chants.
I try to video each dragon coming past. They are heading to the river. This celebration is the end of Buddhist Lent to pay respect to Buddha and the river god, Nagas. They are also going to float their lighted boats on the water to ask for a blessing and good luck for the next year.
I tire of watching after about number thirty. Wandering back along the the length of the parade, gives me a chance to see all the dragon boats. I eventually make it back to number fifty one – in the road just before my hotel. Now how’s that for a way to celebrate my Birthday!
Luang Prabang, where the dragon boat festival takes place, resembles a cross between a Swiss mountain village and French colonial town. Add to that a little bit of Chinese influence. The town is enveloped in a peninsula bounded by the Mekong and the Nam Khan rivers. The smaller roads off the main road, slide away on each side to the water.
Wooden balconied dwellings overlook the Main Street,
and are at present adorned with star lanterns.
Many Buddhist temples, each decorated in their own way, are to be found, it seems, every few steps.
Cafes and restaurants fit in beside shops selling elephant safaris and boat trips.
It has a very relaxed feeling, and I quickly fall into a daily routine of visiting the same coffee shop where I have lunch and can sit upstairs in a comfy chair to read and write.
The night market that blocks the main street each evening has a laid back feel.
There is really no pressure to buy anything and you can enjoy looking at the beautiful embroidered skirts, scarves and linen without being hassled.
I wish that I had more time in Laos. Even in the capital city of Vientiane cars will stop for you when the green man shows! Vientiane is the first time that I come face to face with a giant reclining Buddha image, resplendent all in gold. I most definitely gasp!
There is no-one around so it gives me time to walk round it and especially admire the big feet!
Journeys with my pencil 